Globus Portugal in Depth 2008 Tour

We left Lisbon this morning to begin a circular trip around Portugal (see map). Today was what you would call a very full day: first to Obidos, a white–washed medieval town; then to Alcobaca to visit a medieval church, the largest church in Portugal; next to the seaside town of Nazare for a lunch break; then to the shrine at Fatima; and, lastly, to Tomar, another town of great history and where we would spend the night. After reviewing all the photos I took today, it was hard to believe that we saw so many wonders in just one day.

Globus Portugal in Depth 2008 Tour

Countryside on Way to Obidos

Photo: The beautiful Portugal countryside that we drove through.

Countryside on Way to Obidos

Obidos

Our first view of the town of Obidos, with its castle at the top of the hill.

Obidos

Obidos

Obidos was founded by the Celts about 300 B.C. and then ruled by the Visigoths, Romans, and Moors. On 1282, after the Moors were defeated, King Dinis gave Obidos as a wedding present to his bride Isabel of Aragon. Today, Obidos is a picture–perfect white–washed medieval town. House next to the castle entrance.

Obidos

Obidos

We had to wait for a number of cars to exit the gate before we could safely proceed––no pedestrian walkway.

Obidos

Obidos

The town of Obidos through the gate.

Obidos

Obidos

Walking into the town.

Obidos

Obidos

Past white–washed buildings. The colors blue and yellow are used throughout Portugal.

Obidos

Obidos

A pretty house.

Obidos

Obidos

One of the old churches in Obidos.

Obidos

Obidos

Beautiful wisteria vine on the side of a building.

Obidos

Obidos

Another church from medieval times.

Obidos

Obidos

The Church of Santa Maria with the town’s pillory in the front of the photo. The pillory is decorated with a fishnet, which was the emblem of Dona Leonor, the wife of King Joao II, chosen in honor of the fishermen who had tried to save her son from drowning. King Afonso V married his cousin Isabel in this church––he was 10 years old and she was 8.

Obidos

Obidos

The pillory seen from the opposite direction.

Obidos

Obidos

Close–up of statues on the front of the church.

Obidos

Obidos

Inside the Church of Santa Maria with its 17th century tiles.

Obidos

Obidos

Inside the church.

Obidos

Obidos

Its ceiling.

Obidos

Obidos

Walking up to the castle.

Obidos

Obidos

All throughout Portugal, you will see unusual chimneys, the styles depending on the area.

Obidos

Obidos

Some areas have more than one style.

Obidos

Obidos

Another medieval church, this one next to the castle.

Obidos

Obidos

The castle entrance.

Obidos

Obidos

The castle. It was rebuilt by King Afonso Henriques after he took the town from the Moors in 1148.

Obidos

Obidos

The ramparts. The castle walls date back to the 14th century.

Obidos

Obidos

There wasn’t much to see inside the castle and the wind was fierce up here, so I started to walk back down the hill.

Obidos

Obidos

Entrance to another castle pousada.

Obidos

Obidos

Looking down the hill at the town.

Obidos

Obidos

Tile murals for sale at a souvenir store.

Obidos

Obidos

More souvenirs.

Obidos

Obidos

This rooster is a national symbol of Portugal, called “The Cock of Barcelos.” The legend: A man was accused of theft, but he protested his innocence in court. The judge gave him one chance to prove his innocence. Seeing a cock in a basket in the courtroom, he said, “If I am innocent the cock will crow.” It did and he was allowed to go free. Another version: A man was at a dinner party when he was accused of stealing and, hence, was sentenced to death. The man said that if he was hanged for the crime that he didn’t commit the cooked chicken would get up to crow. It did and the man’s life was saved at the last minute.

Obidos

Obidos

Walking back through the gate at the entrance to the town.

Obidos

Obidos

An old woman is embroidering some cloth in the gate.

Obidos

Obidos

Close–up.

Obidos

Obidos

Tile mural on the wall in the gate entrance.

Obidos

Obidos

I had just enough time to sample the Ginga D’Obidos.

Obidos

Obidos

Here you can ask to have it served in a chocolate cup––after you drink the ginga (made from ginga berries and grappa), you can eat the cup. Very good.

Obidos

Alcobaca

After a short drive, our next stop was at the Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaca, which is Portugal’s largest church. In 1147, King Afonso Henriques defeated the Moors at Santarem. To commerate the victory, he built this church for the Cistercian order. The church was completed in 1223.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

The exquisite Baroque front of the church.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Inside the church. Note the mirror tiles on the floor at the right.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

This is a photo of the inside of the church––compare this with the next photo.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

The church seen looking down at the mirror tiles. I have not seen this done elsewhere before and I found it quite spectacular.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Again, a photo taken inside the church.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Seen looking at the mirror tiles.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

If you look closely, you will see similar markings in many of the churches––they are the signatures of the workers who laid the stones.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

The tomb at the front of the photo is the tomb of Ines de Castro and the one at the rear of the photo is the tomb of King Pedro I. King Afonso IV forced Pedro, his son, to marry Constanza, but he was in love with Ines. After Constanza died, Pedro went to live with Ines, but his father thought that her family was dangerous to the throne, so he had Ines murdered. When Alfonso died and Pedro became king, Pedro had Ines’ body exhumed and he, literally, placed her on the throne and crowned her. He also murdered her murderers and it is said that he ate their hearts.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

The tomb of Pedro I. Note the lions holding up the tomb––lions represent kings.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Detail of the tomb.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

The top back of the tomb.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Close–up.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Another close–up, of Pedro’s head and of the angels.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

The tomb of Ines de Castro.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

The statues holding up her tomb. They represent her murderers.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Close–up of her tomb.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

A beautiful chapel in the church.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Buildings in the square on the side of the church.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Walking past the back of the church.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Statue seen walking back to the bus.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

Close–up of the top of the building seen in the last photo. Note the reflections on the windows.

Alcobaca

Alcobaca

More Cocks of Barcelos for sale.

Alcobaca

Nazare

Another short drive and we were in Nazare for a lunch break. For all our lunches on the Globus tour except for one, we went into towns. We only ate at a roadside complex once. Nazare is a fishing village and a popular summer resort. It got its name from a statue of the Virgin Mary being brought here in the 4th century by a monk from Nazareth. Photo: the main square in Nazare.

Nazare

Nazare

I showed Rui (our Globus guide) a photo of a church in an Eyewitness travel guide that I had brought with me and asked where the church was. Rui said up on top of the cliff in Sitio, reached by a funicular.

Nazare

Nazare

I walked up the hill past this pretty section of town to find the funicular.

Nazare

Nazare

This funicular that climbs 360 feet (110 m) up the hill was built in 1889. However, its equipment has been updated. The funicular departs about every 15 minutes or so and costs 90 cents each way.

Nazare

Nazare

Going up the hill. There are no turnarounds, so, going up, the conductor sits at the top of the car and the passengers face downhill. The ride was relatively quick and not scary.

Nazare

Nazare

At the top, I asked directions to the church (actually, I did this in sign language, making a cross with two fingers). This photo is of the beautiful Nossa Senora da Nazare. I didn’t go inside it––I didn’t want to attempt those stairs.

Nazare

Nazare

A closer–up view of the church.

Nazare

Nazare

And a side view.

Nazare

Nazare

The square next to the church. Women dressed in native costumes were selling nuts and dried fruit.

Nazare

Nazare

One of the woman (at the other side of the square).

Nazare

Nazare

I didn’t know if these woman would want their pictures taken, so I first bought some cashews from this woman and then asked her if I could take her photo.

Nazare

Nazare

I also got this closer–up photo of the woman two photos back. I didn’t buy anything from her. Actually, I had mistaken her for the woman in the last photo and asked her for another photo.

Nazare

Nazare

Very large souvenir store.

Nazare

Nazare

One of the special souvenirs to buy here are dolls dressed in traditional Nazare costumes––both of the fishermen and of the fishermen’s wives.

Nazare

Nazare

Our Lady of Nazare Chapel (Ermida da Memoria) at the edge of the cliff. Legend has it that this is where the Virgin Mary, in 1182, saved Dom Fuas Roupinho and his horse from falling over the cliff when he was chasing a deer in a sea mist.

Nazare

Nazare

View of Nazare below from the cliff.

Nazare

Nazare

A view of the beach below.

Nazare

Nazare

I had to make a decision whether to eat up on top of the cliff at “O Gordo” or go back down on the funicular and try to find a place of eat below. I decided on “O Gordo.” I ordered a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, which turned out to be the best sandwich I had in Portugal, French fries (they had a picture of the fries and I couldn’t resist), coffee, and pastry––delicious. The fries came after I had started the pastry but I ate a few anyway. Total: 6 euros.

Nazare

Nazare

Back on the funicular going down. Another funicular is on the way up.

Nazare

Nazare

I was a little worried that I would not be back in time to meet the group, but I was actually a bit early. Photo: the cobblestoned boardwalk.

Nazare

Nazare

The widows of Nazare are well known for doning all–black clothing––shoes, stockings, coats, head scarves, etc. They are quite a contrast to the bright clothing of the fishermen’s wives and also to the colors of this seaside town. Not a good photo, but one of the widows. The rest of this day appears on the next album.

Nazare