Toledo Gate

We ate an early breakfast at our hotel and then headed to the metro station up the street. Merrie had mapped out our first subway adventure but had misread the map. I caught onto the subway number/color system before she did, probably because this was her first trip to Europe but I had had previous experience with European subways. After a small misadventure of following the wrong directions from a fellow subway rider, we did make it to the Estacion sur Autobuses (the bus station). Henceforth, Merrie was to be in charge of street directions and I was to be in charge of taking the metro. There were more buses than trains to Toledo (in Spain, it is pronounced Toe–lay–do) from Madrid, so we decided to take a bus––both very easy to do with Rick Steves’ instructions. Either way takes about 1 1/4 hours, but the new AVE (high speed) train should be in operation soon, cutting the time down to about 1/4 hour. We were in time to take the 10 a.m. bus––roundtrip fare only 8,30 euros. From the Toledo bus station, we took a local bus to the main plaza. The first views that you get of medieval Toledo are spectacular, but the bus travels so fast that you really only get glimpses here and there and there is no time to take any photos. The only way really to fully enjoy these views is to hike up the very steep circular route to the main town, but you may not have enough energy left to do anything else after you reach the top. Or else you can save enough energy at the end of your day here and hike down the hill and keep looking backward. The photo of this gate to Toledo was taken later in the day.

Toledo Gate

Toledo Street

This photo shows one of the streets that you would hike up to reach the top.

Toledo Street

Plaza Zocodover

The city bus dropped us off at Plaza Zocodover, Toledo’s main square. We had coffee here––cafe con leche (coffee with milk) for me and cafe solo (expresso, no milk) for Merrie. Next, we headed for the Toledo Cathedral, Toledo’s main sight. In the past, Toledo has served as a Roman transportation center, a Visigothic capital, and a Moorish center before being conquered by the Christians. It was Spain’s capital until 1561 and today is a Spanish National Monument.

Plaza Zocodover

On Our Way to the Toledo Cathedral

You can see the bell tower of the Cathedral in the middle of the photo.

On Our Way to the Toledo Cathedral

Toledo Cathedral

The Cathedral is so tightly surrounded by other buildings that we lost view of the bell tower and asked directions to the Cathedral. The directions were correct but not to the tourist door and we had to walk back up the steep street and walk around some more buildings to find the right entrance. I have put my Toledo Cathedral photos on a slide show on this website: Go to Slide Shows, Western Europe, Spain–2, “Toledo: Toledo Cathedral.”

Toledo Cathedral

In Front of the Toledo Cathedral

The plaza in front of the Cathedral.

In Front of the Toledo Cathedral

In Front of the Toledo Cathedral

Merrie asked these men sitting on a bench in the plaza if she could take their photo. They said yes, so I took one also. You see similar scenes throughout Spain.

In Front of the Toledo Cathedral

Toledo Cathedral

Interesting bridge between a building and the Cathedral. We missed this passageway to the Cathedral on our way here.

Toledo Cathedral

Toledo Cathedral

The Cathedral. It is so boxed in that you cannot take a photo of the whole front of it. More photos of the front on are on the slide show.

Toledo Cathedral

Toledo Cafe

We spent much time inside the Cathedral and then sat down at this cafe near the Cathedral to eat lunch.

Toledo Cafe

Toledo Cafe

The cafe’s tapas menu (we were able to get an English–language menu). We chose shrimp in garlic sauce as our tapa, which was delicious. It came with bread and chips.

Toledo Cafe

Toledo Cafe

The Cafe’s regular menu. We also ordered gazpacho soup, which Merrie liked and I didn’t.

Toledo Cafe

Toledo Cafe

The gazpacho soup.

Toledo Cafe

Toledo Cafe

The tiled wall inside the cafe. You see many beautiful tiles in Spain.

Toledo Cafe

Toledo

After eating, we walked back to the Plaza Zocodover. This is one of the buildings that we passed on our walk––actually, it was across from the cafe.

Toledo

Toledo

Another building that we passed.

Toledo

Toledo

A street that we walked up.

Toledo

Toledo

Some more buildings.

Toledo

Toledo

A shopping street. I had stopped at a store on this street on our way to the Cathedral. One of my sons was in Toledo last year and had bought a decorated pitcher but he wished that he had bought cups to go with it. He didn’t remember the name of the store or exactly where it was located––only somewhere near the Cathedral. But I found it easily as some pottery in its window matched the photo of the pitcher that I had taken with me. However, the store didn’t have any matching cups.

Toledo

Toledo

Fans for sale. They are sold throughout Spain.

Toledo

Toledo

A cafe that we passed.

Toledo

Toledo

Back at the Plaza Zocodover. We wanted to get on a tram here that would give us a ride around the outside of the city. However, we just missed it and would have to wait for the next one.

Toledo

Toledo

While waiting, we continued our walk. Street off the Plaza Zocodover.

Toledo

Toledo

Building facing the Plaza Zocodover.

Toledo

Toledo

A closer–up view.

Toledo

Toledo

The clock says it is now 3:05 p.m.

Toledo

Toledo

View through the arch.

Toledo

Toledo

Another view through the arch.

Toledo

Toledo

Statue of Miguel de Cervantes, the great Spanish writer, 1547–1616, on the other side of the arch.

Toledo

Toledo

Looking back to the Plaza Zocodover from the other side of the arch. That’s Merrie in the middle of the arch.

Toledo

Toledo

We decided next to visit the Alcazar––the building in the middle of the photo––on the hill above the Plaza Zocodover. An alcazar is a former imperial residence.

Toledo

Toledo

Another view of the Alcazar. However, the Alcazar was closed for renovations. When it reopens, it will be the National Military Museum.

Toledo

Toledo

Another view of the Alcazar.

Toledo

Toledo

Side street near the Alcazar.

Toledo

Toledo

Entrance to another square, near the Alcazar.

Toledo

Toledo

View of the Toledo Cathedral though an opening in the square.

Toledo

Toledo

A closer–up view.

Toledo

Toledo

More of the square.

Toledo

Toledo

Bell tower of another church.

Toledo

Toledo

Back at the Plaza Zocodover. The tram awaits us.

Toledo

Toledo

The tram took us down the circular route that we came up in the city bus. The photo is of a building outside the city walls.

Toledo

Toledo

Another view outside the city walls.

Toledo

Toledo

And another view.

Toledo

Toledo

We are now being driven around the back of the city. The Alcazar is on top of the hill. The river is the Tajo River.

Toledo

Toledo

The other side of the Tajo River.

Toledo

Toledo

The Alcazar on the left and a city gate and city walls.

Toledo

Toledo

Another view of the Alcazar.

Toledo

Toledo

We are now behind the Alcazar on the hill. To the left, you can see the bell tower of the Toledo Cathedral.

Toledo

Toledo

Farther to the left.

Toledo

Toledo

Still farther left, with good views both of the Alcazar and the Cathedral.

Toledo

Toledo

Still farther left.

Toledo

Toledo

And still farther left.

Toledo

Toledo

Still farther left, with view of a city gate.

Toledo

Toledo

Another view of a city gate. Note all the tour buses lined up on the street behind it.

Toledo

Toledo

A street outside the city gates and part of the city walls.

Toledo

Toledo

More of the city walls.

Toledo

Toledo

More of the city walls.

Toledo

Toledo

And still more.

Toledo

Toledo

Back again at the Plaza Zocodover.

Toledo

Toledo

It is now about 5 p.m. and I am both very hungry and very tired. I didn’t want to go through the hassle of sitting down at a cafe to eat and that McDonald’s in this photo looked very inviting. I decided right then and there not to be a tourist snob anymore about eating at a McDonald’s when in Europe.

Toledo

Toledo

I had a Big Mac (seems to be called a Big Mac whether in the U.S. or in Spain), palatas fritas, and a Coke Light––under 5 euros and it really tasted very good. Merrie had an ensalada. We were very tired and decided to travel back to Madrid. We got back to our hotel about 8 p.m. and ate a snack at our hotel bar. But Toledo really deserves a good deal of time and I don’t even know if you can see even most of what it offers on a day trip, even if you arrive here early and full of energy. We missed visits to some chapels, a monastery, some museums, walks wandering along more of its old streets, and a great walk at least down the big hill.

Toledo